Sort of semi utopia

I'm sure Miraflor has problems. There is certainly poverty. They are a community dependent on the coffee harvest and yet their plants have been afflicted by a fungus that has virtually destroyed their crop for several years running. 

But to me they are a symbol of what can happen. 

I needed a break from my computer and the heat. And I had fond memories of a visit to Miraflor three years ago. So I took a long bumpy bus ride up the mountain. 

photo: nicatour.net

I stayed at the same homestay I did last time, with Doña Lucia. She has an incredible garden with medicinals, edibles and ornamentals. She greets her guests with tea that is a mix of valerian, mango leaf, and mint - perfect after the dusty bus ride. 

She talks freely of the changes wrought by the empowerment of women in her community. There are many women's cooperatives, giving women their own income. And I was invited to join a tour her nephew Henry was giving to a group of college students. 

Henry spoke eloquently of his own experience as a child, living with a lot of violence in his home. Then with the war, women gained self esteem as workers and fighters. This was followed by training of both the women and men in awareness of gender oppression.  

He says domestic violence dropped precipitously. Women and men share the housework. This is a sharp contrast to San Isidro where machismo runs rampant and I was told no men even know how to cook. 

Henry said the men made a video to help train other communities, sharing their experience of combating machismo. 

Another thing that really impressed me is in a country where alcoholism is such a problem, they have prohibited the sale of alcohol in their community. 

They have also made a commitment to shade grown organic coffee. They created cooperatives to help secure their economic position. And they have organized ecotourism to supplement their agriculture. 

Which is really what brought me there. There is a fellow named Nelson who grew up in this remote farming community. And he has taught himself to be an excellent birder. His enthusiasm is contagious. When I correctly identify a bird I get a fist bump. And he takes every opportunity to share his love and knowledge of birds with anyone around, even the random Nicas waiting at the bus stop. 

There are so many rural communities out there with similar conditions and somehow Miraflor made itself into someplace special. The question I keep asking aloud and in my head is, how do we support other communities to do the same?